What type of acne do you get?
We’re going back to basics this week as I got a request a while back from someone asking for a post about the different types of acne. Much like my ‘simple dinner recipe‘ that I posted on Wednesday, sometimes the things that you take for granted are revolutionary to someone else!
When I think back though, I have to admit it wasn’t that long ago that even I wasn’t quite sure which type of spot a ‘whitehead’ was… and I’m still not even sure if I’ve ever had cystic acne, or if what I’ve had would be more classified as nodules… or maybe even just bad papules…
Either way! Here is your acne types with plenty of pictures:
Whiteheads

whiteheads
We’ll start with whiteheads because whiteheads were always the ones that confused me. To me, it made perfect sense that whiteheads would be the smallish red pimples with the “white” pussy “heads” on them. But apparently those are actually called pustules (I find the names kinda revolting, you?).
Anyway, whiteheads are simply clogged pores that are not inflamed. They are clogged below the surface of the skin, so they remain closed and flesh coloured, but create a little bump on the skin.
Blackheads

blackheads
Then comes blackheads. Blackheads are basically the same as whiteheads – a non-inflamed clogged pore – but the difference is that the top is open and therefore exposed to the air. The air oxidizes the sebum and keratin that’s stuck there and it turns black.
Note: Many people ask me how to get rid of clogged pores like whiteheads and blackheads… I find that lots of leafy green vegetables works a treat. But sometimes these suckers are stubborn anyway, and that is why I like jojoba oil so much. Jojoba oil is the most molecularly similar thing to our own sebum, so it is the best for going into the pores, dissolving the plug and unclogging your skin. Adding some super finely ground sea salt to your facial routine for mild exfoliation is also a good trick.
Sebaceous Filaments

This is my actual nose from a few years back. Yes, I'm showing you my nose hair.
Here is one you may never heard of probably because it’s not actually a type of acne at all and isn’t even related to an acne breakout – but I’m including it because it’s so often misunderstood. It’s something called sebaceous filaments.
What are sebaceous filaments?
It’s what you think are the blackheads all over your nose and surrounding area. Guess what? Almost everyone thinks they have a blackhead problem all over these areas when in reality, every single human has these and they aren’t clogged pores at all! They are actually just the oil glands in your skin.. the tiny tubes that supply a pore with sebum. The tips of them are what you see dotted around your nose and they often resemble tiny blackheads, although they’re usually lighter in colour, evenly spaced, and smooth to the touch, unlike blackheads.
They are meant to be there, everyone has them, and you can’t make them go away. If you try, they fill right back up.
I just wanted to bring this to light because many people are needlessly stressing out about their perfectly normal, healthy sebaceous filaments when they shouldn’t be!
Papules

papules
And now we get into inflamed acne. Inflamed acne is when a clogged pore – a whitehead or a blackhead – gets irritated and becomes inflamed. This mean it swells, turns red, and begins to hurt. (This is why we want to avoid irritating cleansers + your fingers so that a clogged pore doesn’t get inflamed!)
Papules are tender red bumps … usually fairly small, up to a cm in diameter, and somewhat raised. The defining factor is that they are not filled with pus, although they may go on to fill with pus later on and become a pustule.
Absolutely do not squeeze these!!! It’s only going to make matters worse and encourage scarring.
Pustules

pustules
Pustules are your classic zit. Hard, inflamed, and full of pus that has the defining white or yellow centre. May remind you of a volcano. While it’s ever tempting to pop these, please try to refrain. It may not be as harmful to pop one of these vs squeezing some other varieties, especially if it’s waiting to burst… but I still would really not recommend it (from a former chronic popper – trust me).
Read www.stoppickingonme.com. Right now. Go. Do it.
Nodules and Cysts

Cyst
And now on to severe acne lesions… nodules and cysts. These are large (much larger than papules and pustules) painful bumps under the skin that take quite a while to go away and can create scarring.
Nodules are generally hard and not filled with pus. Cysts are filled with pus and feel like fluid filled sacs underneath the skin.
Inflamed acne happens when a plug ruptures a follicle wall and leaks fluid into the skin, which your immune system then responds to with inflammation. if this rupture happens near the surface of the skin, the result is usually a minor papule or a pustule. If it happens deep within the skin, it’s much more likely to become a serious nodule or a cyst (another great reason to never squeeze your skin… you push the bacteria further into your pores, making it more likely for you to get nodules and cysts. And if you do get them, don’t ever, ever, EVER even dare THINK of squeezing this type of acne, although I hope that goes without saying by now).
Nodules is where I’ve gotten confused about my own acne… in the past, whenever my acne started taking a turn for the worst, I would begin getting a lot of big, hard inflamed spots that don’t have heads on them, mostly around my chin. I have never really known if these are actual nodules or just bad papules, because I’ve never had a ginormous one that has lasted for months. I still don’t know the answer.
Either way, I’ve never gotten one of these since I cleaned up my lifestyle!
Other Types of Acne
There are other types of acne too. The ones I was describing above fall under the name of “acne vulgaris”, which is resoundingly the most common form of it, and the one with the worst name in my opinion! Other types include:
Acne Rosacea
The spots in acne rosacea are basically the same as with acne vulgaris (although usually no blackheads), except it’s also accompanied by a red rash that usually covers the nose, cheeks, forehead, and chin. It primarily affects women over 30 and is probably the most common type of acne after vulgaris.
Acne Conglobata
This is the most severe type of acne with large lesions interconnected across the face and body with lots and lots of blackheads. It is known to cause severe scarring and damage and usually only affects males. It’s rare, don’t worry.
Acne Fulminans
This type of acne can come on very suddenly and usually affects young men, and it different than the others because it is usually accompanied by fever and aching joints. It usually occurs after unsuccessful treatment for acne congolobata.
Pyoderma Faciale
This type of acne that consists of large nodules and pustules that can be very damaging. It is basically the same as acne fulminans but usually only affects women between ages 20 to 40, comes on suddenly, only affects the face, and usually disappears within a year.
Gram Negative Folliculitis
This is a rare type of acne that consists of pustules and cysts and it usually is a consequence of long term antibiotic use for regular acne, particularly tetracyclines. The cysts usually contain a specific species of bacteria.
Note: Don’t let these scare you. Most of them are very rare.
Mild, Moderate, or Severe?
And then comes the question of what classifies your acne as mild, moderate, or severe. Most people don’t really know what theirs would be classified as, and how they describe their acne tends to be a matter of perspective – the more upset you are about it, the more likely you are to classify your acne as worse than it really is.
So is there a standard grading system?
Well, some classify it according to type of lesion. In other words, if you only have whiteheads and blackheads, that counts as mild. If you have those plus pustules and papules, then you have moderate. If you have those plus cysts and nodules, then you have severe.
I guess that system works, but I don’t think it’s that accurate, personally. I think it’s the sheer volume of inflammation that should classify it.
For example, if you have a few whiteheads and blackheads and one or two inflamed spots, to me that is not moderate – it’s mild. There is hardly any inflammation so moderate seems like a bit of an extreme rating.

Me in a past life
On the other hand, like I said before, when my acne was bad, I’m not even sure if I had cysts or nodules. They might have been nodules, but maybe they were just big papules. If they weren’t nodules, I find it ridiculous to say that my acne was merely moderate. The volume of inflammation on my face was far beyond that.
Here is a proposed global acne rating system from the US FDA that seems to work well enough in my opinion:
- Clear, indicating no inflammatory or noninflammatory lesions;
- Almost clear, rare noninflammatory lesions with no more than one papules/pustule;
- Mild, some noninflammatory lesions, no more than a few papules/pustules but no nodules;
- Moderate, up to many noninflammatory lesions, may have some inflammatory lesions, but no more than one small nodule;
- Severe, up to many noninflammatory and inflammatory lesions, but no more than a few nodules.
Okay! So there you go – I hope that cleared up any confusion about what’s what with the different types of acne.
Remember that all types of acne (and all sorts of other health complaints you may have) can be treated with holistic treatment instead of drugs – and this is beautiful because there is far less chance of it coming back in the future, since you are working with your body to heal instead of harming it further.
If you need more more help with this, don’t forget I have my book available – Ultimate Secrets to Acne Freedom.
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PS – It doesn’t matter whether you have mild, moderate or severe acne, you’re still beautiful! ♥

Thank you Tracy for a very informative post. This clears up a lot of confusion I had about acne terms!
That’s really interesting article, Tracy. I’ve been always wondering what kind of acne I have. Now it’s quite clear…
Thousand of black&whiteheads with few small spots can be clasified as moderate?
Hm…
I’ve been fighting with them for 9 years…
Your words ‘no matter which type of acne you have, you’re beautiful’ are best i can hear. It won’t let me get a breakdown! That’s reall nice, thanks:-)
Hi Tracy, this is an interesting article. About a year and a half ago, I started breaking out like crazy…cysts, nodules, papules when my skin had been mild/moderate my entire life before. Now I am wondering if I had gram negative folliculitus, because this severe break out occurred about 6 months after I was on intervenous antibiotics for a total of 11 weeks (due to a systemic infection). The break out came about very suddenly and very severely. When I started breaking out, I read Skin Deep, stopped eating gluten, tried to cut down on stress, eat mostly vegetables, take probiotics and fish oil and use manuka honey to wash my face, and still have moderate and sometimes mild acne. It seems that my body is still slightly off balance from the antibiotics even though it’s been about 2.5 years since I was on them. Do you have any recommendations? Is it possible that I might have had gram negative folliculitus?
Hi Kay!
Obviously I can’t diagnose you and say for sure whether that’s what it is… it might be. However, if your severe acne, whether regular or otherwise, is a direct result of long term antibiotic use, it definitely means that you need to focus all your attention on healing your digestive system as much as possible and this will make the biggest impact for you… look into the GAPS intro diet, because I think something like that is your best bet
Hi Tracy! The GAPS diet sounds great! I’ve also had a recurring yeast infection for almost 8 months now, so I’m planning to go on Linda Allen’s Yeast Infection No More protocol/diet. What do you think of Linda Allen’s anti-candida diet vs. the GAPS diet?
Thank you for your helpful comment! : )
Hi Kay!
Well I don’t know anything about her anti-candida diet in particular, but I do know that candida cleanses are very effective and helpful. They work great for me.
Gaps is kind of like… sorta… a high end candida cleanse that really targets healing the gut wall as well as killing the yeast and getting rid of candida. I haven’t tried GAPS yet, but I want to…. I feel like it’s a little more hardcore than a general candida cleanse though, so it’s not for everyone, but if you are willing to do some serious healing work, I’d go for that one over a candida cleanse. It’s up to you really! I think they are both effective!
“PS – It doesn’t matter whether you have mild, moderate or severe acne, you’re still beautiful! ♥”
The most important part of the whole article!
Nice article! I know when I first started getting acne, I was SO confused what type/s I had, it drove me crazy and only made me more upset.
Unfortunaly, in the section with pictures, especially those damn whiteheads and red Papules I check “all of the above” (But thankfully, with the exception of Nodules and Cysts!!)
I’m really scared of “Acne Rosacea” though. Rosacea + acne seems like a terrible combo to have to go through!
V____V
Good post!
I’m pretty sure I have acne rosacea. My skin seems to be constantly red- and I mean RED, not just slightly pink- even hours after doing anything that might irritate it (washing, etc). Anyways, 2 questions, if you can help.
1) Will a healthy diet/lifestyle help the redness at all? My acne seems to have improved so far (knock on wood!), but the redness is still there.
2) I know this is really strange, but do you have any idea why the redness only happens during the day? Even when I have been lazy and done no hard work/exercise/anything that might regularly cause flushing. After my evening washing, my skin is a normal color.
Hi Jennifer,
Yes, I believe the redness will go away with a healthy diet and lifestyle… I believe that no matter what your health problem, there is always an underlying root cause. No health problem just happens for no reason.
However, I don’t actually know that much about rosacea in particular or why the redness only happens during the day!
Would you say Manuka honey helps reduce the redness for Papules in particular? It seems I pretty much have this type of acne along with whitehead bumps on my forehead. Aloe Vera from mountainroseherbs.com seemed to help my redness go down, & it was the most natural type of bottled aloe I could find. However, if I used it daily it would cause more acne to surface on my chin overtime so I stopped it. Any other things would you recommend I try? I’m working on the diet, exercise, my face is combination dry/oily depending on the season, and I am only using water at the moment to wash my face.
Yes it does help with papules, and I think it decreases the life cycle of all acne (well, I’m not sure about cysts and nodules as I haven’t had any since using manuka). If you haven’t tried manuka and jojoba oil, you should try them
This was really helpful! I always thought the little dots on my nose were blackheads, so I’ve been in a constant battle with them. I need to be nicer to my skin, apparently!
After coming across your blog and attempting to stop picking/squeezing at my skin, I’ve noticed that my skin is actually fine if I just leave it alone! Thank you <3
The US FDA rating system makes a lot more sense to me. Every week or so I will get a nodule but I felt classifying my acne as severe was a bit extreme when there are people with much worse acne but no nodules. Thanks for posting the grading system that you feel works well enough!
O.K tracy when you said you had acne you werent lying….but you got rid of it with candida cleanse. I got of of Birth Control and now have acne problems that are half of what you had but it didn’t work. I only did it for 8 days though. Is there a specific fat/ vegetable/protein ratio to follow. was 8 days just not enough. Thanks so much tracy its this or accutane
oh yes i am sorry so many typos i meant to say i tried a strict candida diet for 8 days. and it involved enemas. was that the problem? is 8 days to soon?
Hi Bunny,
8 days isn’t really enough… you really need to go longer than that… unfortunately you have to be patient with natural healing, it isn’t a quick fix, even if you’re strict.
ok, thanks so much for your reply. well at least I now know it was a matter of not being patient enough. I also did acne free in 3 days which worked well for 2 weeks after but started to come back. So maybe it killed off tiny candidas, but they were still there. OK back to the drawing board 21days-to a month it is
I get whiteheads from having dry skin. If I forget to moisturize, then I’ll get them. Since they’re bigger than the pore and hard, you can’t ‘pop’ them and it takes months for them go away. Argh! Luckily, if I moisturize after washing my face I rarely get them.
WHITEHEADS THOSE SUCKERS! :@ I have them all over my face, with the occasional one or two pustules that obviousely leave a freakin brown mark. ARGHH What do u suggest topically for them? they NEVER go away!!
I eat healthy, walk, wash my face with honey and apply aloe vera gel before sleep…What else can I do pleeease ^_^
Oh and also is exfoliating good or bad for them?
I find that jojoba oil seems to get rid of them for me!
Tracy,
Did you find that you went through any kind of a die-off phase when you changed to a healthier diet? Did the candida diet make your acne worse before it made it better?
Hi Jenna, yes my acne did briefly get worse before it started getting better